Stead. Stead. Stead.
I’m told that D26 were the servant’s quarters. Apparently, there
was a big house where the row of radhus - sorry, ‘town houses’ -
at Nygatan 8A to C now stand. The rich folks lived in there, and D26
was for the staff.
The money always
knows how to pick a prime location (called 'stead' back in those days), and D26 is in the primest of the
prime.
Back in the day, it
was right next to the town’s fresh water source - the town pump –
now my guest bathroom. It's less than a minute from the railway station; but north, north east of it, so upwind of the NNE prevailing winds
that blow over Mälaren, keeping the fumes from the steam engines
away. And has easy access to the roads and tracks leading away to other
neighbouring towns and villages. Including the then industrial hub of
Åkers Styckebruk.
The house was
perfectly positioned a street away from the commercial centre of
Mariefred, with its wide range of shops and businesses. And close to
the lake for boat trips into Stockholm.
A few minutes walk
from the castle. Handy for the king to pop over for tea. And great
views out to the west before the west side of Nygatan was built just
under a decade ago.
They sensibly stayed
a reasonable distance from the water’s edge. Back then, they hadn’t
yet become caught up in the romance of water views. They were more
practical, understanding that Sweden is mostly winter, and that a
body of water is a huge cold sink, often with cold winds blowing off
it from the east. Effectively living cheek by jowl with a huge block
of ice that sucks the energy out of any house directly exposed to it. Just compare D26's drift cost per kvm of 169kr with that of Strandvägen 3 at an eye-watering 525kr.
Today, D26’s
position is still hard to beat. Djurgårdsgatan is central, but
quiet. Very little traffic, and not much footfall, even on busy
weekends when the big events like Ångans Dag, or the Food Truck NM
happen. And since the space in front of D26 was made a no parking
zone a couple of years ago, it’s even quieter. Visitors sitting in
D26’s garden forget that my green oasis is only a couple of
minute’s walk from everything, it’s so peaceful.
Also, at D26’s end
of the street we’re close to everything that matters, including the
exits. You’re at Läggesta with the station and motorway access –
even the återvinningscentral – in three minutes. You’re also
walking distance to the first tee, whether full size or mini.
And, of course, we're closely surrounded by all of Mariefred's restaurants and take-aways. The residents of D26 have gone from being servants to the best
served in town.
An Easier Way Of Life
Visitors to Mariefred think that the place is trapped in some
simpler, slower time. Less digital, more analogue.
And they’d be
right.
Personally, I prefer
to visit the action and live in the relaxation. Have my calm and
quiet outside my door and travel to the noise.
Right now, I’m
writing this in the garden. The view is roses, clematis, fruit trees and my
vegetable plot. The soundtrack is a blackbird, and somewhere over
towards the centre of town, someone’s cat is crying for its
breakfast. Probably Lennart. If you live in Mariefred, you know
Lennart. Mariefred is Lennart’s town. We only get to live here
because Lennert allows us.
And now the gentle
chuff chuff of a steam train leaving the station, and its whistle
announcing the weekend’s first departure. I can smell it. The
slight whiff of steam train arriving on the warm southerly wind.
Don’t get me
wrong, it’s not all genteel nothing going on. The town has a larger
than average group of bundles of energy that organise regular events,
and plenty of entertainment. From the big things like the steam
weekend, to weekly events like concerts, outdoor fitness groups of
all sorts, sports competitions, and vintage vehicle rallies. There’s
a lot to see and do. If you want to. And none of it happens right
outside D26’s door. You’ll need to travel. A couple of minutes by
foot.
"Här får du mest semester för pengarna!"
In addition to lower
house prices, lower food prices, much lower fuel prices (ved), and
lower house and car insurance costs; holidays are also generally way
cheaper when living in D26 compared to in and around Stockholm.
For starters, you’re
living in one of the best holiday destinations on the planet, so
straight away you’re saving a fortune by not needing to go anywhere
for a summer vacation. The summer climate in central and southern
Sweden is one of the best in the world. Not too hot, and almost every
day has some sun. And in D26 and its town, you have the world’s
best resort, with a ton of stuff to do.
Right there, you’ve
saved around 100K by not dragging a family to some over-crowded, bin-odoured oven near the Med. Sure, you won’t be able to show off in
the office by telling everyone you blew some coin on a few weeks on Mallorca. But
saying, “We taught the kids how to scuba dive in one of the local lakes,” is way cooler (and you could buy them all the kit with the money
you saved – hell, you could buy them a dive boat).
And you're not camping in an over-priced toy apartment and driving an expensive toy car. You've got your own stuff, all your own toys, your own bed, a reliable toilet, and water you can drink. You have a proper kitchen. Proper sized TV. Proper garden. And why not blow some of that money you saved on lots of trips to your many local restaurants and bars. Become a true local. You'll see a much better long-term ROI than chucking cash at some paella-slinging tourist trap.
Holidays
last all year around in Mariefred, and you get to
squeeze every drop out of all of the seasons. Summer is longer because you're in a place where you get to use all of it. When you have a garden, outside is a step away. And a garden means it's never too hot. The nearby lake helps too. So does being surrounded by restaurants and forests.
The autumn is pretty
special around here, with lots of excellent foraging in the forests.
We have a path we found that is so filled with different berry bushes
and mushrooms that we named it The Food Court.
And winter is filled
with skating and skiing. The shuffling kind right outside your door, and the whizz downhill kind a couple of hour’s drive away. Why spend a fortune on
a week in a packed somewhere over sportlov, when you can spend every weekend in a
half-empty nearby? Or bunk off work on a weekday, turn right
rather than left on the E20 in the morning, and have the place to yourself.
When I’ve asked
friends who live in expensive apartment boxes in Stockholm why they
chose to go to Spain for a couple of weeks in July, the response is
often a slightly snarky, “Because we don’t have the luxury of
living in a house in Mariefred.”
I’m already home
Recently, I realised
that Mariefred is one of the best capital city commuter towns on the
planet.
I often meet up with
friends in Stockholm, and I usually take the train. Earlier this
year, I met a friend for dinner in the centre of the city who lives
in Gustavsberg. At the end of the evening I headed to Centralen to
get the train, and he took the bus back to Värmdö. Later, he called me to
suggest that maybe next time he would come out to Mariefred to save
me from having to travel all the way into Stockholm every time we had
dinner. I asked him where he was. He told me he was on the bus.
“I’m already
home,” I said.
He was surprised.
Most people who don’t live in Mariefred usually are. They think that we’re miles and miles away from the city. The fact is, we’re
closer than most. At least by time. And that’s all that really
matters.
I used to live just
outside Vaxholm, on Karlsudd, and would commute to the city from Monday to
Friday. It was closer by distance, but public transport took well over an
hour and was irregular. Whether by Vaxholm’s båt – which stopped
a hundred metres from my house – or by bus - that had a stop three
kilometres away. And travelling by car also took an age because the
E18 is one long traffic jam between Arninge and Roslagstull in the
morning and evening.
On the other hand, the drive into
Stockholm from Mariefred during the morning is
swift as there is relatively little traffic. Most of it is, in fact,
coming the other way with people commuting from southern Stockholm to
industrial jobs in Södertälje.
It’s interesting
to use the ‘Time to Travel’ faciility on Google Maps and see how
long it takes to travel by public transport from, say Gåshaga or
Sticklinge on Lidingö to the centre of Stockholm. A lot longer than
travelling from Mariefred (and houses in those places cost double
that of a house in the centre of Mariefred – and the quality of
life is nowhere near as nice as living in Mariefred).
Having a large car
park at the train station is also a huge benefit, and pretty rare elsewhere.
My Värmdö friend doesn’t have the option of driving to his bus
and parking cheaply for the day. He needs to walk a couple of
kilometres, adding even more time to his commute. It takes me three
minutes to drive to Läggesta.
Not only is it
quick, but the trip by train from Mariefred is far more pleasant than
the public transport trips from almost all other towns around Stockholm. Even
before the new double decker trains arrived.
I used to accompany
my kids to their schools in Stockholm when they were young. I’d
prepare a breakfast of fruit, sandwiches and juice and we’d eat it while sat around a table on the train playing board games. Very
pleasant. And beat the hell out of a bus from Värmdö.
Sörmland Safari
A favourite
excursion for anyone who visits D26, especially those that visit
from abroad, is an early evening trip out to see the beasts of the
wild.
A trip from
Mariefred to Stallarholmen and back at dusk is like a drive through a
safari park. You’ll see the full range. Wild boar – our record is
64 one evening, moose, different makes of deer, cranes, foxes. If
you’re very lucky, a wolf or two. Maybe a wolverine. Take some
powerful torches if it gets a little too dark. It’s always a pleasant
surprise what you catch in the beam as you point it out to the side
and switch it on.
On a boat ride out
to the islands in Mälaren you’ll usually see beaver and,
obviously, lots of birds. And in the autumn, the massive squadrons of
cranes that decide to all fly south on a particular day in October,
and take one last look down on Mariefred while squawking their goodbyes,
is a sight to behold.
But personally, my favourite is a slow walk
through the forests surrounding Mariefred. You will see so much. And
not just animals. We have our own names for various places that are
prolific for certain species.
There’s a spot
south of here that swarms with dragonflies in the summer - Trollsländer Valley. I’ve no
idea why they accumulate there, but there are hundreds. Down by a
narrow point along the Marviken lakes, a bunch of electric blue
damselflies hang out at Neon Bridge. A spectacular sight. It's just below Echo Point where you can get an excellent...well, you can guess the rest.
There are a few spots
where large concentrations of orchids grow, which is pretty special. And as you walk, you’ll always get a close up on some big beast that didn’t see
you coming. Moose usually, but the capercaillies seem to not see anything until the last second before leaping out of the undergrowth and
flapping away. And in the late
summer and autumn, the fungus can be pretty alien looking.
All of this is
something that those of us who live here can take a little for granted, but visitors are blown away and find it all incredibly
exotic. I still find myself stunned by the natural beauty. I’ll never get used to skating over a frozen Mälaren
that I was sailing on a few weeks before. I can’t not stare at a
heron flying slowly overhead. Or the swifts that hang out above my
garden. Or the huge murders of crows that put in an air display most evenings. Or the badger that sometimes decides to waddle through the
garden.
And even though it’s
common to experience all this stuff, it never loses its wonder.
Another zig. Or is it a zag?
It’s time for
another change. I’ve had a life of doing wildly different things.
Different hobbies and different jobs. And as I approach my final
chapter, different is beckoning again.
As soon as life gets
comfortable, I can’t seem to help pushing over the table and
starting again. I prefer being a novice than an expert. Not sure why.
Maybe it’s the reduced return on investment as I get good at
things. Lots of practice creating pretty much the same result. I
prefer the speed of going from the thousandth best to the hundredth.
Then the fiftieth. And then top five. And then it gets boring, and
frustrating. And it’s time to stop and try something new.
Some interest or
activity that I’ve never thought about before. Something that I
stumble into. And then fall in love with. If you come and take
a look around D26, you’ll see the evidence of the rather eclectic
set of activities that I discovered and then threw everything at. The
new one is sailing.
What’s funny is, I
owned a house on the sea for 18 years just outside Vaxholm, and never
had any desire to float on it. I spent all of my time flying above
it. Or climbing on cliffs next to it. Or mountain biking in hills and
forests hundreds of miles away from it. Or working on classic cars
within view of it. Or bringing up kids. Okay, I did teach them how to
dive under it, but I was never into boats, apart from a purely
functional RIB that never went further than an island nearby called
Getfoten, that had a restaurant on it.
It was my eldest
daughter that had me testing sailing. She went away on a number of
sailing camps as a kid. Later crossing the North Sea and the Baltic
on various courses in her mid-teens. I bought her a sailing dinghy to
zip around Mälaren on. And when she later went off to university, I looked
at it gathering dust at the back of one of the garages and thought,
“How hard can it be?”
I read a 'How To' book, and
after dragging it down to the slip next to the old, abandoned
restaurant, I rigged the little boat and hopped aboard. And then fell
out. After righting the dinghy, I wriggled back in, got blown fifty metres or
so parallel to Strandvägen, where an audience was beginning to
gather, and fell out again.
This sailing
technique was repeated along a more or less a U-shaped path out
towards the entrance to the guest marina and back to the starting
point at the slip, where I received a round of applause. At a guess,
I probably spent 80% of that ‘sail’ in the water. And this may
sound strange, but I had fun. I’d found something new that I was
truly shit at.
After packing up,
dragging the boat home, and re-reading my book, I tried again the
next day. And I was off and running. Zipping around very inexpertly
with only a couple of capsizes this time. In my mind, I was crushing
it. I was Sir Francis Chichester. I was taming the oceans, and
harnessing the wind. Ready for my first solo circumnavigation. Of
Edsala Grund.
And I was bitten.
And bitten hard. And the plan was set. I would spend my decrepit
years drifitng around the warmer parts of the planet aboard a hole in
the sea into which I would throw my kids’ inheritance. Which meant
the house needed to be sold. Which is why it’s for sale. I’m
outahere! I’m off to explore the seven seas!
Maybe. As we all
know, gods definitely laugh when men make plans, and certainly no
plan that I have ever made in my entire life has actually come to
fruition, so if you want the house, act fast before some new idea
comes along. Or reality bites (I’m no spring chicken).
Cheap cosy
I guess the energy needed to heat D26 was as pricey per joule when it was built
as it is now. Probably more expensive. Which explains the design of
the house. It was built to extract and retain as much heat energy as
possible from anything burned.
The main heat source
is the fireplace. It’s positioned right in the very centre of the
house, surrounded by thick stone walls. These act as a massive
storage heater that the living spaces wrap around.
Back in the day, I’m
told that they would burn charcoal that was stored in the cellar –
delivered through what are today’s basement windows. By lighting a
fire first thing in the morning, the core of the house would be
warmed, which would then radiate that heat throughout the rest of the
building during the day. With the heat rising to warm the upper floor
by bedtime.
The same process
still works today, but is made more effective by a network of tubes
that run from the fireplace out to the upstairs bedrooms, the
kitchen, and the dining room. A fan blows air warmed in spaces around
the fireplace along these tubes and into the rooms. It’s effective,
and with a cheap source of firewood from one of the local farms, very
efficient.
Another very
effective source of heat, even in the winter, is the sun. Being low
in the sky, it streams through the windows on the south side of the
house where all of the ‘living’ rooms are (living, dining and
bedrooms) and quickly warms up the rooms even if it’s freezing
outside. And the building’s massive brick walls keep the heat
inside. In fact, the wall on the east end of the house is a firewall
designed to protect the building if Mariefred ever caught fire, and
is over a metre thick.
That same design
keeps the house cool in the summer. With the sun higher up, the angle
of incidence against the windows is more acute and less heat energy
comes in, while those thick walls also insulate against the warm air
outside.
The one ‘living’
room not on the south side of the original building is the original
bathroom – now the downstairs toilet – which is tucked up against
the rear of the fireplace. Smart.
The dark metal roof
plays its part too. Heating up in the winter sun and slowing the
escape of heat from the house during the day. The thick insulation in
the attic space is almost more important for keeping the heat out in
the summer as it is keeping it in at night and on cloudy days during
the winter.
One final design
that helps to retain the heat is having just the one exterior door on
the north side of the house, opposite to where the living rooms are.
It helps to minimise any loss of heat from those areas when the door
is opened. It also improves security as you have to come all the way
into the garden to enter the house.
With all of these
smart designs, I almost never need to use the modern heating systems
in the house. Only when it gets really cold. And even then, only on
the north side of the house.
All of the clever
ideas from 125 years ago, combined with modern insulation upgrades
made over the years, has produced a very energy efficient building
that squeezes out and jealously guards every calorie of energy I buy.
Bo and Bi makes no sense
Within D26, I have
two boyta bedrooms that no one ever goes in for weeks on end, and a bathroom that’s used for maybe 20 minutes a day. There are several
large pieces of furniture, like a large dining room table, a large
kitchen table, a large coffee table in the living room, and various
cupboards and shelving units that totally block several square metres
of boyta, making it inaccessible and essentially useless other than
as storage.
However, I use my
basement gym every day for an hour. The garages are constantly used,
housing boats and motorbikes. I use the guest house as a
workshop pretty much every day. And the parts of my bedroom where the
roof slopes to below 1,9 metres are just as useful as the taller
parts as I sleep under both.
So why do we have bo
and biyta? They’re both as useful as each other. Both as valuable.
It’s an entirely pointless delineation. Something made up by tax
people. Which offers a
significant opportunity for buyers.
By not blindly using
a tax person's definition of bo and bi, it’s possible to unlock huge amounts of value by defining your own bo and bi based on
how you will actually use that space. Often, a mäklare
will completely miss huge areas of a property because they don’t
fall under the tax person’s definition of bo or bi.
When I bought D26,
the mäklare got no further than looking up the tax documents, and
sold me 152 kvm of boyta and 19 kvm of biyta, basing the price on
that area. Which meant I got 87 kvm for free. And if you add the
garden, that is one of the most used boytas for almost half the
year, it’s even more.
Before realising
this, I always wondered why I managed to buy D26 for half the price
of a house just across the road that sold a few months before, when
D26 is only around 27% smaller – and arguably nicer, and in a
better location.
Always buy based on
what’s useful to YOU, not the tax authorities. Because when did they ever do anything that profited you?
A convenient wilderness
I get to wake up,
get on my bike, and blast around a forest for 20km or so.
During that
trip, I’ll not only be immersed in the trees and other plant life,
I’ll see plenty of wildlife. Birds of prey, woodpeckers,
capercaillies, deer, often moose and wild boar. Sometimes it feels a
little like scuba diving through untouched undersea landscapes,
watching life go about its business. Sometimes you may meet a fellow
diver, but that’s rare. You’re almost always on your own with the
beauty. And your thoughts.
Three quarters of an
hour later, I’m home, and pumped. Full of energy, ideas and
solutions for the day. The noise has gone and the signals are strong.
Crank some tunes, then twenty minutes downstairs in the gym to add a little strength to
the cardio (I also have a stationary bike down there for the slippy winter months), and then it’s time to fuel up for the day. Breakfast.
Ever opened the
fridge and picked up the milk carton to find it’s too light? Not a
problem in D26. I have another fridge packed with all the milk I’d
ever need two minutes walk away. It’s called ICA (or COOP if I’m
in the mood).
Handy.
Eat yerself fitter
I love having an
edible garden. It was my eldest daughter’s idea. Yes, we always had
the fruit trees and bushes, but she came up with the veg. It used to
be a relatively useless patch of grass. And then we dug it up.
Boosted the quality of the soil, and planted a random selection of
seeds. And they grew.
We didn’t really
know what we were doing back then, and ended up with more lettuce
than ICA. We’re better at apportioning the land now, and get a wide
range of eating. This year’s discovery is beetroot. I’d never
eaten it before other than pickled, out of a jar as a kid. And I have
no idea what made me decide to plant it, but I’m happy I did.
Roasted with a little garlic, it’s spectacular. And roasted with
goat’s cheese, it’s sublime. And the leaves are like a nicer,
more interesting spinach.
Last night’s
simple dinner of roast chicken, roast beetroot, steamed beetroot
leaves, and freshly dug potatoes and carrots, with my favourite sauce
made from home-made chicken stock and blackcurrant jelly (made from
blackcurrants out of the garden), not only tasted incredible, it
might even have made us all a bit healthier and fitter.
I do love a wet summer
Summer’s on. It’s taken a while to get started. And it’s still
spluttering like an old car that needs a new spark plug or three. But
at least the temperature’s turned up – and we get a day or
two of sunshine each week.
There isn’t much
better than waking up, sliding out of bed, flipping on the kettle,
and wandering out into the garden to absorb the morning rays. See
which flowers are out, and which parts of the garden are ready to
eat. And then sit with my tea and plan the day.
The first sail of
the season happened a couple of weeks ago. A few sunny, gusty days. I dusted off my daughter’s little pink dinghy, found all the bits,
and dragged it down to the lake. A careful rigging – I usually
forget something on the premiere – and then launched into an
offshore breeze.
The boat’s quite
unstable with my fat arse on board. It’s like balancing on a beach
ball. But the challenge of getting as much speed out of it while
keeping it upright is fantastic fun. Even when I fail and take an
unplanned swim.
After a couple of
hours skimming over the surface of the lake with one of the world’s
most beautiful views over my shoulder, I’m ready to drag the boat
home and collapse into a seat in the garden with a silly grin
plastered across my face. I’m sure there must be nicer places to
live, but I can’t think of any during those moments.